Hong Kong

What to do in Hong Kong for a day? Well there’s the famous ‘Festival of Light’ show in the harbour at eight each evening but for the day? One thing that impresses about Hong Kong is height, there is little space and what they do have they make the most of. There are Colossal buildings rising up from the waters edge. Looking further there’s Victoria peak that overlooks the whole city. It’s a hill to climb so our destination was set. Thankfully the initial climb is taking care of with a cable tram to the complex half way up. This offers some good views of the city and houses Madame Tussards but out the back is the start of the governor’s walk to the peak. That evening we took the Star Ferry over to Kowloon for a quick trip through the technology markets, market stalls selling a whole range of electronics goods from museum pieces to the latest high tech gadgets. Our evening meal was authentically oriental, including a thing which we hope was a sea vegetable, but looked worryingly like the entrails that were simmering in a pot at the entrance to the restaurant. After the meal we headed back to the harbour for the festival of light. The story goes that a number of business in Hong Kong were competing with more and more elaborate night time decoration for their sky scrapers so the government stepped in. The result is the largest sound and light show on earth. The majority of the major landmarks around the harbour have all been covered in various lighting to take part in a coordinated show viewed from across the water.

Torture

Back in Christchurch this was the day that had been dreaded, the shopping day. We had a morning to fill before catching our flight to Hong Kong. In addition to the usual souvenirs we were charged with finding a particular pair of sheepskin slippers and a native Maori nativity set. Thankfully there was some entertainment to be had from ascending the steps of the cathedral tower and a trip round the sights on the city’s traditional tram. We found the slippers but failed on the nativity despite visiting a few arts and crafts shops. We arrived in Hong Kong airport and got off the plane through the standard air tunnel, walked through departures and onto a shuttle train to the main airport. A second shuttle train took us to the shopping complex that housed our hotel. We did not have to go outside once. This was a theme that could have been continued the following day.

There was Gold in these hills

Today we had to get back to Christchurch from Fox Glacier, another marathon drive. We were hoping to break the journey at Mount Cook for a look round there and because it was a driving day of course it was raining. By the time we got to Mount Cook (at least we assumed we were there the visibility was nothing through the cloud and rain) it was obvious there was no walking to be done here. We had lunch in the car and a quick look round the visitor centre before proceeding on. A dive into the trusty guide book revealed some more potential walking further north where hopefully the weather would be better. Goldsborough was the target for walking and as this was an old gold mining town the town is no longer there (as there is no more gold) but there are a number of interesting walks round the old gold workings. You marvel at some of the walks around New Zealand one walk started and ended through two tunnels cut straight through the rock. On the outside normal roads and scenery on the other a miniature tropical climate, rocks and trees covered in moss, suspending walkways winding round the pits and mounds of the gold workings. 

Franz, Fox and worms

Today was our glacier trip to Fox Glacier. After being issued with boots and crampons we boarded the bus for the 15min drive out to the glacier site. From there it was a walk up round the side of the valley to climb onto the glacier higher up away from the volatile face. Whereas Franz Josef still has an ice cave mouth where its stream pours out Fox currently does not. Our guide told us of how he was giving a talk to a party while he was facing the glacier and the group was not as suddenly the mouth collapsed into the stream below. A bizarre section of the route to the glacier was through a rock fall zone. The trip organisers saw fit to install an LED in a plastic lunch box connected to (presumably) piezo wires leading up the mountain. If the LED was on the rocks were static but no stopping to admire the view through this section. The glacier is actually advancing (increasing in size) at the moment, for many years it was retreating back into the valley. Along the way driving to the glacier there are signposts of where the face was many years past. The reason it is now growing is global warming! The rain that is not falling in Australia, causing the bush fires, is making it to New Zealand falling as snow in the upper mountains and feeding the glacier. After fitting the crampons to the boots and collecting an ‘explorers’ pole we made our first steps onto the ice. Despite the fact that steps are cut for each ascent and descent and the crevasses you walk through are safely packed with ice it was a great experience to walk round a real glacier. There were reminders of how dangerous they can be with guides practicing the crevasse rescue on the less sociable sections. You get a sensation of walking on a giant living being with it slowing contorting as it cuts it way down the valley. Sections open up and close again over periods of months. As the crevasses close the rocks and debris that has collected inside it are expelled with great force and seen as very fine mud seeping from old wounds. Apparently a great exfoliate. In the afternoon we took a couple of walks round the side of the glacier following its journey over hundreds of years. Far from the current face is the remains of the Victorian cabin that was the access point to the glacier. Now it just provides a good viewpoint to see the glacier from. Another walk took us around Lake Matheson, famed for its reflections of the mountains in the distance. We got to see the reflections, but with the peaks of the mountains cut short by cloud. For those that do not like the underground Fox Glacier town has its own glow worm park which you can walk round at night and see glow worms sheltered by raised tree roots.

Into the West

Before leaving the pass there was a bit of walking to do. A visit to the Devil’s Punchbowl Falls (with a detour to look at the old hydroelectric station) and then on past the Bridal Veils falls (complete with education about the local flora) was a warm up to an ascent to the snow line (Otira Valley); after all this was a pass. The road down from the pass was an amusing and impressive mix of recently repaired roads and immense engineering to maintain the road despite the mountain continually changing shape to erosion. Colossal concrete constructions hold the road and diverted waterfalls over the road. We arrived at Franz Josef glacier in good time so started our ice experience early with a walk to mouth of the glacier. Further is restricted to guided parties only. The day finished with a drive out to what turned out to be an impressive beach complete with larger breakers and driftwood (Gillespie’s Beach). It was odd to stand on the west coast after being on the east only the day before. As ever we were treated to some very impressive views. The glacier villages only exist for the glaciers and by the time we got back to eat most of our few options had stopped serving food. Thankfully the restaurant served up an impressive feed that was topped off with some New Zealand whiskey. The Lammerlaw was mild compared to the Scot malts that inspired it with little peat aftertaste not surprisingly.

Arther's Pass

We got to spend the morning with Hazel and Paul in Christchurch before setting off for Arthur’s Pass in the afternoon. This was an impressive drive right up into the mountains through the kind of scenery that just asks to be walked into (and up on to) but we wanted to spend more time on the West Coast and so we pressed on to stay the night at the pass. In case there was any risk of altitude induced starvation the evening meal at Oscar’s Café and Bar prevented it; there was enough pizza left to provide part of next day’s lunch.

Christchurch by Night

Today we were hoping to get a stop off at Mount Cook on our return to Christchuch but as it was a driving day it was chucking it down. We barely made the trip between the car park and the visitor centre without getting drenched so we decided to break our journey further north hopefully with better weather. A quick stab at the guide book revealed Peel Forest Park which provided a pleasant walk round some very large old trees (1000+ year old Totura, 9m circumference, on the aptly named Big Tree walk) and on to a waterfall. By the evening we were back at Speights tucking into another delicious if not enormous meal. Hazel managed to squeeze the night off so joined us for food. Later that evening we were to sample some Christchurch nightlife. After a couple of café bars we hit an Irish bar, we were meant to head on to the concrete club (d’n’b night club) but before we knew it we were closing in the early hours of the morning. Unlike good ale you can export Guinness anywhere (though the first round of Guinness reminded us that old beer is not good beer). 

Canyoning and Rafting

The second day of credit flexing was a water day. This morning we were going 12 mile Canyoning. We were met at the arranged pick up point by the most clapped out van you had even seen. Driven to the middle of nowhere the mixed group had to get changed either side of the van! This was in contrast to the shiny new kit and no expense spared we had become used to on these trips. Suitably kitted up in ill fitting wetsuits, helmets and climbing harnesses we proceeded to walk into the top of the canyon. I don’t know what the couple that met us the other way made of the bizarre procession that confronted them. As it turned out this trip was probably the biggest buzz of all the activities. We came to a small clearing in the trees and a anchor point with a rope disappearing off into the valley, the guide pulls out a pulley and line clips it to the rope and asks who’s first? This flying fox was probably better than the cave one as you could see what you were flinging yourself off to cross the canyon. Once we were safely to the other side there was a brief abseil before we got rid of the climbing harness and started the canyoning proper. Remember when jumping off heights into water try to land on the backs of your thighs and keep your legs bent. This half bomb into the water means the water slows you down rather than the rocks underneath. There are a number of ways of descending waterfalls. You can float up to them feet first and be sucked over and then under by the current. You can flow over them superman style to be caught by your feet, lowered then dropped. You can always jump! Just to the right there, not too right or you’ll hit the rock, take a big step or you’ll hit the rock don’t think about it or you’ll hit the rock just jump. You mind goes to those circus dives into paddling pools when you’re standing at third storey height being counted down. I would highly recommend this half drowning exhilarating experience to anyone willing.  “… you may loose a limb or consciousness or your life … we don’t like to lose customers but it can happen… things in the water that will kill you… once you start downstream the only way to get out is to carry on…” our cheery guide was telling us on the way to the Queenstown Rafting as he was trying to get the bus load of worried people to sign the waver. He also told some jokes, mainly at Australia’s expense “What’s the one thing wrong with Australia? It’s above sea level” and introduced us to some of ‘his’ carvings as we wound round a road that Peruvian’s would be jealous of for wheels to long drop proximity. The humour continued down the rapids with our allocated guide, there were a number of rafts all going down together with a safety kayak bouncing between us. Apparently a grade 4 rather than 5 as the water level was not right but thrilling enough anyway. To add to the excitement our guide decided to race and chase the other rafts between and through the falls and rapids. The final rapid arrived after a 150m long tunnel cut by the gold miners long before (part of the danger in the river was the old mining kit strewn across the unseen river bed). We came bursting out into the light and straight into the rapid for the last shot on the Shotover river. In contrast to the morning there was even an option of a sauna post rafting before being returned to Queenstown. That evening feed was at the British ‘PJs Fish and Chips’ some of the accents and attitudes of the custom in that place make you proud to be a Brit abroad.  

Flying and Biking

The morning of the first day of the credit flexing was a flight over the mountains to Milford Sound followed by a cruise round the fjord and a flight back, the only down side to this morning was the 6am start. You always worry when you get in light aircraft but the pilot seemed quite confident that this little seven seat plane would get us safely to Milford sound. All being weighed and the main ballast (Dave and I) seated under the wings does not do much to increase the confidence. The flight was amazing 30mins across mountains with incredible views everywhere. It certainly beat the alternative 5 hour drive if you were trying to get there and back in a morning. The sounds are a very impressive fjord and once discovered were used by early sailors as a natural safe harbour from the terrifying seas at their exit, except it was calm the day we went.





The afternoon was the Vertigo Heli-Biking. After being fitted out with a very shiny full suspension bike, gloves and helmet we were weighed again and taken back to the airport. This time we were taken to the helicopter port rather than the light aircraft. We were soon in the air flying between the planes towards a peak that would be the start of our trail. Queenstown is the second busiest airport in New Zealand (presumably in air traffic terms). The good thing about heli-biking is that you start at the top of the hill which means most of the work has been done for you. Unfortunately pro kit does not immediately turn you into a pro rider and as the others disappeared off the slightly more controlled plummet down hill was preferred. The approach was slightly justified when some distant memories of first aid training were recalled to stop one of our number leaking red after he had lost an argument with a corner on the descent. The ascents were somewhat of an evener although the rich eating was taking its toll on fitness levels. It was the riving crossing that provided most entertainment. The first crossing was determined to be too fast and too deep and our guide was pleading “think of the bikes, water is their enemy” so it was off with the shoes and socks and wading through with the feather bikes across our backs. It was a handy opportunity to wash off the blood from an unnecessary look at the ground moments before. The second crossing was shallower but just as fast and as the first of the group managed to ride it the decision was made. Most of the group made it across with varying degrees of success but all crossed except me who stalled and then plunged into the stream half way across. A snack break facilitated suitable wringing of clothes to make the rest of the ride tolerable. Thankfully the subsequent crossing was more successful and we all crossed without any swimming. As we had opted for the cross country option rather than all down hill the route saw fit to complete the trail with a series of steep climbs that made full use of the “granny gears” much to the disgust of some of the group. A good afternoons biking even if we were shown up a little by some of the “I don’t get to go biking every weekend…”s. Post biking Lone Star was recommended for a feed due to the large portions. The food was excellent the service was interesting “how would you like me it sir? That’s just the way my boyfriend likes it!?”
Small planes are ace, choppers are cool, bikes are shiny, at least before you take them riding.

Ben Lowmond

We had a lie in till 8am this morning as the alarms failed to go off. As we had decided on the next few days’ activities the first port of call was to see how far the credit card would bend. With the next few days all booked we set off up Ben Lomond (yes there was a hill, yes we had to climb it). Shunning the gondola that takes you half way to the summit after a filling breakfast and collecting lunch from the Naff Caff we started the 1400m assent. We were at the top shortly after lunch and took in some incredible views of the surrounding countryside, on the way down we explored some of the lower peaks and did our bit to preserve the local fauna by ripping the pine trees from the ground (as instructed I may add). Dinner again was at Dux to sample some more of the ales. Alpine ale is a good strong ale, the Ginger Tom an excellent take on ginger beer, the porter was the most impressive and least gassy but it all fell apart for the raspberry wheat ale. It’s bright pink and served in a wine glass, why do they call it an ale at all?

Road Rain

Today’s destination was Queenstown, reached after another full day of driving but again through fabulous scenery. As we had changed hire car and driver the back roads leaving Christchurch seemed the ideal place to execute our second near accident. New Zealand drivers can be so polite when flustered! The drive was broken at lunchtime with a visit to a lake, church and honoured sheep dog (this is New Zealand) at Lake Tekapo. We arrived at Queenstown in the rain. Rain would put a dampener on the activity whirlwind we intended for the next four days. Thankfully the weather was forecast to improve so we collected a brochure to plan the hedonistic section of the trip. A discovery of a micro brewery (Dux de lux) brightened the mood and although they insist on carbonating the beer it was to our taste. 

Anarctic Orana

More of the animals 

A colossal breakfast at Speight’s saw us fit and recovered to collect our second hire car. We travelled to the Antarctic Experience in the morning due to meet Hazel for lunch at HER wildlife park (Orana). The highlights of the Antarctic Experience is the big fridge (they simulate an Antarctic blizzard) and the Hagglund ride (an amphibious all terrain vehicle ride). They also have some penguins for you to tread on (another story).
 “I’m Hazel’s Brother” turned out to be a very useful phrase over the next few days and it all started on arrival to Orana. We were welcomed in and given our tickets to be eaten by lions and shown round the office. We had a pleasant lunch break with Hazel apart from her being set upon by a duck (she hates those ducks, not that she is an orange monkey or the duck was green or wearing a nappy!). After lunch we chased the feeding tour round the park. Lions, giraffe, rhino, cheetah, trout and wild dogs the list goes on. The big cats feed was the most impressive being in the cage on the truck within the enclosure while the keeper fed the lion above your head trying not to loose any fingers or customers. We were dedicated to seeing all that the park had to offer. This included us being at least half of the audience for the Trout Feeding session. Maybe the lion feeding was too much for everyone else who no doubt couldn’t then face the splashing of hungry fish… An honourable mention must go to the excellent new tiger exhibit and its clear and informative signage, many praises to the author of such fabulous work! That evening was the Orana Christmas bash at Speight’s (can’t guess who organised that) and we were reintroduced to many of Hazel’s colleagues some who I suspect may be after a quiet day at work the day after.

Sailing?

Breakfast was as impressive as the meal the night before, fruit juice, muesli and French toast (eggy bread). After striking camp a water taxi picked up our overnight gear before we set out on the 17km trip back to Kaiteriteri. Along the way we met the seals again and even a baby blue penguin that impressed the girls. Lunch was had at Observation Beach before we set out to cross the bay. Stephan had a trick up his sleeve for this afternoon. The tarpaulin that was our kitchen shelter the night before became a sail, we rafted up, the front of the kayak holding the base of the sail and the rear of the kayak using the paddles as masts we had a square sail to catch the breeze. After a few failed attempts we started soaring in the gentle breeze. Stephan went from being able to lap round us to struggling to keep up and we shot across the bay at Marahau. An hour’s paddling became half  an hour of hanging on as we sailed across the bay at a blistering five knots. All that was left was the paddle into the bay at Kaiteriteri and to say our goodbyes from another excellent trip before heading for Christchurch. Gambling with the fuel gauge until late into the night we finally arrived in Christchurch at 1am.

Sea Kayak

At last the sea kayaking. The troops and kit were all piled into water taxis and we set off for our destination, Onetahuti. Our group of six was Hazel and I, Dave and Holly, Molly and Max with Stephan our guide. After some basic training we were in the water and off. Given the rains of the day before we were spoilt with glorious sunshine and a light breeze. After a while to get used to the synchronised paddling and steering with a rudder we landed on a beach for lunch. After lunch we rode the tide up a couple of estuaries (Bark Bay and Sandfly Bay). A neat trick was the water temperature. Put your hand into the surface water and the fresh snow melt stream was freezing. Put your hand deeper and the salt water sea was warm in comparison. The fresh water flowed over the sea! Raise your arm over your head to paddle and the freezing water trapped in your sleeve runs down your arm and back! The paddle into (and even more so out) of each estuary was fun, there was just a small channel left open as the tide fell with a strong current flowing out. Getting the correct line was important, lucky we’d got some practise at controlling the kayaks by then.
After landing and pitching camp at Bark Bay for the evening four of us walked back to the bridge over the estuary at Sandfly Bay that we had seen earlier in the day (about a 40min round trip). Max and Molly did their own walk (newlyweds). We were surprised to see that without the tide we couldn’t have paddled up the estuary at all. It was clogged with fallen trees which had earlier been just vague shapes underwater.  Also the people we were laughing at wobbling across the bridge high above the estuary did have a reason to look frightened. Camping in style the meal was a Thai curry in both meat and vegetarian variants with wine, beer and a fruit chocolate fondue for dessert. Thankfully by sunset the sand flies went to bed and also did us.

Skywire

We were due to commence our sea kayaking today but we woke early to rain! The weather on the trip so far had been ideal. We dripped over to the kayak headquarters to see if the trip was on or off. There was a general hope it was postponed and this was soon confirmed. Although this would mean a hell of a drive to get back to Christchurch we rebooked for the day after and sought an activity for today in the rain. We headed down the coast for breakfast and entertainment. On the way we came across the world’s longest flying fox (1.6km) and felt it had to be worth a go. By the time we reached the sky wire the rain had almost stopped. We were encouraged by the ‘fearless’ kiwis that came up to the summit with us to go first as the operator was saying “if it stops along the way don’t panic it sometimes gets confused in the sunlight I’ll just have to switch it to manual…”. Thankfully we plummeted off the hill like clockwork, were hauled up the other side of the valley and were then treated to the whole experience again in reverse. According to the speedometer we reached 86.8mph, beating the timid kiwis. As the weather had improved so much we returned to Abel Tasman (Marahau) to do some of the coastal walk that we had planned for after the kayaking. The consensus would later be that the kayak is the way to sea (see) the park best.  During the walk we found Appletree beach which was our own (until some other people started to set up camp) but we conquered a tree (no apples in sight) and badger made a bid for freedom. 

Seal Swim and even a Walrus

 More Photos

We had a crazy 5.30 start today to get across to the Abel Tasman Park for a seal swim. We were now travelling in Hazel’s trusty steed. The initial journey was quick on long straight roads but the closer we got the more windy the roads became and we wondered whether we would arrive on time. For the seal swim we were all kitted with wet suits, goggles, snorkel and flippers before climbing aboard a water taxi and heading out to seal island. Our guide for the day was John “The walrus” who insisted on teaching us a singing map of the route. Unfortunately the tune was not too memorable and only “split apple rock…” remains in anyone’s memory. We got to meet quite a few seals and although we respected the 10m rule the seals did not so some were a little close for comfort. At lunch “The Walrus” put on a dazzling display of puppetry and characterisation to explain some facts known about the seals to a bemused audience of adults regressing to a childhood Punch and Judy show. 

To The South Island

Today’s target is Wellington and a ferry crossing to the south island, a full day drive. That said the drive did have some redeeming feature in the scenery. We drove round mountains and across deserts even managed to find one of the few traffic jams in New Zealand to park in. We had a thankfully smooth crossing and were welcomed on the other side by a friendly face :-).

Waiotapu

After collecting some maps from town for the afternoon we headed out on the tourist trail, Waiotapu Thermal Park. After visiting the mud pools we went on to the geyser (which suspiciously fires at the same time each day) and then on to a tour of the large pools of gunk, steaming pits and coloured flats in the rest of the park.
For the afternoon a hill was discovered (Rainbow Mountain) and hence the summit had to be reached. According to the guide book the route to the top was well marked with orange tags. Despite the lack of orange tags (and rainbows) and a brief stop for lunch overlooking a lake we made it to the summit. It was worth the haul as there were some spectacular views of both mountains and teletubbie hobbit hills. On the way down we found all the orange tags, obviously marked on the descent they were on the backs of all the trees. As the hill climb didn’t take long enough we drove on to the Whakarewarewa Forest Park to walk round the Blue Lake with a detour to the Green Lake. Yes, there was a slight difference in colour, but like Rainbow Mountain it was subtle. I’m not sure how often people make use of these tracks we were walking as we kept reaching track closed signs in the other direction. Food that evening was eaten at Capers.  It was so good we popped back the morning after to collect lunch for the next day. The staff were quite memorable, the only one old enough to serve the alcohol had a bit of a Marvin complex “here I am skills to serve a banquet and who do I feed tourons…”. A whole new way to hate your job in a loving it manner.

Black Water Rafting

Today we went caving with the Black Water Rafting Co on the Black Abyss tour. Kitted out in wetsuits, climbing harness, helmet and ridiculous shorts (cos the rest of the outfit was fine?) we were driven to a hole in the ground. After a brief reminder of abseiling above ground we descended one by one 37m into the blackness. I think it would have helped if I had turned my head torch on. 37m sounds like quite a long way, but I was just getting used to abseiling when suddenly I was at the bottom.  Once we were all in the cave we walked into a thin passage and then all queued for the next section. By the screams silenced by a banging sound I guessed we weren’t walking it.  As it turned out it was a flying fox over the underwater stream that we were about to raft landing on a ledge on the opposite side of the largest section of the cave. After whizzing down the fox in pitch black there was a warm drink before we were issued with large inner tubes. How do you get to the water a few metres below? Stupid question, you jump. Landing in sitting position with the inner tube under you gets you successfully wedged you into the ideal rafting position. We worked our way upstream paddling deeper into the caves. After travelling a distance into the caves our guide got us to join together into a tube chain and to put out our lights. We were pulled back downstream through the cave in the pitch black to admire the glow worms illuminating the cave ceilings. When we got back to where we’d jumped in we abandoned the tubes, ready to be collected by the next group who we could already hear abseiling in. We had to swim, walk and float through the progressively smaller caves. One section we had to float through on your back with your nose scraping the ceiling (well you would if you had a very long nose). To leave the caves we had two options; the so called “Stairway to Heaven” or “The Gates of Hell”. For some reason we all opted for The Gates of Hell route. This comprised of wriggling and scrambling up three stages of a waterfall with rest points only just large enough for four people at a time. This was probably the closest to real caving of the whole trip. A warm shower, bagel and hot soup waited for us on return to the base, a pleasant end to a superb morning.
The afternoon we went to the museum of caving in Waitomo before setting off for Rotorua. On the way we stopped off at a bird sanctuary to view some Kiwis before arriving at the egg smell town (sulphur from the hot springs)

Squid and Penguins

With determination to defeat jet lag an early start saw us waiting for a bus first thing this morning. I know New Zealand is turning into a film maker’s paradise but they were actually filming a bizarre sci-fi program at the bus stop! We spent the morning going round Kelly Tarlton’s Antarctic Experience learning about the race to the South Pole and also some interesting facts about squid and penguins. At lunchtime we picked up our hire car from the most incompetent lady (“everyone else is on lunch but I think this is what we need to do…”) and after the usual driving in different country near crash set off to introduce ourselves to New Zealand roads. By mid afternoon we were in Waitomo and managed to catch a couple of natural sights, a natural formed bridge, some caves and a larger waterfall, before finding another attraction, the local Speight’s :-P  

 

Sky Tower

Well after a very long flight we arrived in Auckland. After a quick freshen up in a very posh hotel we did our best to stay awake until night time. This involved a trip around Auckland and a walk up the Sky tower. Although some took the arrested descent down the vertical cable on the outside of the building we took the great glass (bottomed) elevator. Back at the hotel our first glimpse at New Zealand television saw an apparently famous sheep being flown out to the ice berg that had arrived off the New Zealand coast. They landed the sheep, farmer, news crew and then proceeded to film the shearing of the sheep on the iceberg. This was headline news. 

Flight To New Zealand

Well after the pleasant experience of the trains running on time we have the misfortune to be leaving from heathow. After checking our bags we were asked to join the queue for security check. The queue went round the first corner, and the next, and the next... we were almost at the exit. A couple of hours later we finally started the journey to New Zealand